The CityNightLine Experience

Station clock at Praha hl. n.

Destination card on my car

The trip from Prague through Dresden follows the Elbe River and taking the trip at night was really shorting myself of some incredible sights. Not only the river and architecture of Central Europe but also freight yards, switch towers and the other fascinations of rail buffs. Through the dim light I could see a little and at some of the stops I took a few pictures by opening the upper windows. But I really need to do the trip in daylight.

A photo taken out the window during a station stop, I think this was Bad Schandau

I had purchased a ticket for a couchette car. A shared sleeper compartment with washrooms and toilets at the ends of the car. Up to either four or six persons to a compartment. Kind of like a hostel on wheels. Couchette bunks are cheaper than sleeper compartments and would give me a chance to talk with fellow passengers. Apparently my car was broke. In its place was compartment coach with six seats to a compartment. But with only two people in a compartment I was able to fold up the armrests and sleep across three seats. I had to use my coat as a pillow as since it was no longer a couchette but a coach car there were neither blankets nor pillows. Originally I shared the compartment with a lady traveling only as far as Decin. Her ticket was stamped by a Czech conductor, when I said I was traveling to Amsterdam I was told somebody else would come by. At Bad Schandau what appeared to be two police officers came through the car, shining flashlights in the compartments, not a word was spoken and they walked by after shining a light on me. That was the extent of my interactions with any railway employees. I saw no more the rest of the trip.

I slept across the seats on the left

By now I was pretty sleepy so I made do the best I could; somewhere around Dresden I began dozing off for short periods. I gained a compartment mate then he left and I gained another in Berlin close to midnight, he stayed with me through Arnhem and sometime around eight in the morning we both gave up on sleeping.I followed the signs for food to the next car to find a canteen that was closed. As a frequent traveler I had prepared for this eventuality and ate a Clif bar for breakfast.

The man who rode with me from Berlin to Arnhem was a Dutch biologist who taught at Penn State University in the States for three years. We had a wonderful long conversation on rail and road transportation. As a European he is envious of the wide open spaces of the US and the incredible rail routes that did or do exist albeit for freight not passenger. 

A cargo train of hopper cars moves through Utrecht Centraal

At Emmerich we had a “lok change”, that is a changing of the locomotive from a Deutsche Bahn to a Nederlandse Spoorwegen locomotive. No pictures because it was very foggy and not quite light enough yet. A Railion (Now DB Schenker) cargo train passed  us going the opposite way while at the station. The DB Railion train had the effect of provoking some discussion on the importance placed on cargo/freight versus passenger service in the United States versus in Europe. It had been my fellow passengers experience with Amtrak to expect delays of upwards of several hours. On the contrary in Europe the rail corporations face fines for delayed passenger trains. In the US emphasis, with the exception of the Northeast Corridor, is placed on freight movement. In Europe it is passenger, with cargo trains having to wait. This lead to the construction of some dedicated cargo lines including a controversial one in The Netherlands that is not currently extended into Germany, upon entering Germany the cargo trains are back on rails shared with passenger trains and no longer on a dedicated right of way. A right of way that through Dutch countryside meant the buying up of farmland and property to create, as one had not existed there before. 

From Arnhem through Utrecht and to Amsterdam attempts at trainspotting were hampered by fog and low clouds but from time to time I was a able to take some decent shots. The lack of a compartment mate meant nobody was complaining about the open window and cold wind. 

The upper windows opened affording me the opportunity to take the photos and video shown here. But I'm still not sure if it's ok or not to climb out the window. The signs were a bit confusing.

Using my iPad I shot some video in Utrecht and coming into Amsterdam of the other action on the rails. Trainspotting from a train. Here are some photographs and video taken from aboard the CNL

Finally I arrived at Amsterdam Centraal on the morning of Thanksgiving Day. Sixteen hours on a train is far, far superior to Sixteen hours on a plane. But I was glad to be on non-moving ground. Several hours afterwards I could still feel the motion of the rails. Even though the experience isn't quite what I anticipated I feel that I'd give the CityNightLine another chance. In the summer time there would be some daylight movement of the train affording a chance at seeing some scenery. Maybe next time they'll be a bunk for me to rest on after a full day of walking around Prague.

End of the line

The trams of Prague

27 November 2012 about 9 in the morning I landed in Prague. It was clear, no wind but a chilly -10 Celsius. Dressed appropriately for the weather and for walking I took the bus from the airport to Praha hl.n. and stowed my luggage. From a vending machine I bought a 24 hour transit ticket and set out to explore Prague until evening when I had a train to Amsterdam to catch. 

Prague has an extensive public transit system and for only a few dollars you can get a 24 hour transit pass for all of Prague’s public transport; buses, trams and the subway. The subway was built during the cold war and portions are very deep to act as a bomb shelter. I did not explore the subway while there but near the central station are two of these ventilators for the subway tunnel. The Soviet influence stands starkly against the Art Nouveau Praha Hlavni Nadrazi (Prague Main Station).

    Subway ventilator

                                     

Besides rail travel under or just adjacent to the central railway station are bus, metro and tram stops. A future post will have videos and still photographs of the station. For now we focus on the trams.

The trams in Prague range from classic Tatra T3 to some of the most modern in Europe. As the central tourist area of Prague is rather small I actually only rode on one tram during my trip. I lucked out and was able to ride one of the T3 cars. I doubt there is a more fitting tram car for a member of The Hobo Proletariat to ride in. In total over 14,000 T3's were constructed and were exported all over The Soviet Union and Eastern Bloc nations.

A rebuilt T3 Tram with low center floor on the outskirts of Prague

                                        

 A Tatra T6A5 exits the Ujezd stop.

                              

Groomed lawns obscure the rails along portions of the tram line near the city edge, where the trams run in broad median between highway traffic.

                          

A Skoda 15T approaches Ujezd.

                              

I was witness to a most severe punctuality in the operation of the trams. I did not witness a tram arrive even seconds late to a station and frighteningly as you'll read below, nor did I see one leave seconds late from a stop. Not only did the tram doors close shut nearly on a women’s nose as she ran late to a tram stop but the driver than pulled away, the hopeful passenger stuck as a pedestrian scant millimeters away from the moving car. Much more horrifying was the pensioner with forearm crutches struggling to step up into the car and having the doors shut on his leg. Another passenger and I assisted the man as the doors opened and shut on him two or three times. From inside the tram, unless you have a seat, it’s difficult to see the station signs so it’s helpful to have looked at the map beforehand for landmarks.  

    Of course the T3 cars are no longer in their original state. They've had various upgrades include the destination sign shown above.

                                     

A Vagabond can handily use the Prague public transport system to move around the city. Keep in mind the Czech stop names can be a bit of challenge to read and remember, particularly during the very, very short tram stops. For my trip I printed out a map with the tram stops I might use marked on it as well as the destination station and tram number so when three cars were stopped at a station within a minute of each other I would know the right one to get on. The tram was very crowded but I was lucky to stand near the driver’s cab and shoot this short video of the operators view.

I had no difficulty spotting my stop, I knew in my direction of travel it was the first stop after crossing the river. It was the nearest stop on that line for the Petrin Hill cable car. Dating back to 1891 the funicular has been opened, closed, fallen into disrepair, gauge changed, rebuilt, and lengthened. The current iteration dates to 1985. A nice summary time line and some more information is available at the The Prague Post newspaper website.

A look up Petrin Hill and a look up at the cable car at Ujezd Station at the base of the hill.

                         

The Petrin Hill Funicular is a quick trip up a steep hill overlooking Prague.  The transit pass for the other public transportation options in Prague also covers the Funicular. 

The view from the cable car ascending Petrin Hill.

   

There are two cars running on rails but movement is controlled more in the manner of a cable car or ski lift. The two cars counter balance each other and pass just downhill of a central station. On the trucks one wheel is double flanged, the other has no flanges, at the passing siding no points need to be thrown to move the car to the adjacent track. 

Passing track halfway up Petrin Hill.

                               

Petrin hill is home to an observatory, gardens, a replica of the Eiffel Tower and several other attractions. In addition to these the upper station includes a small museum showcasing the history of the Funicular.

Motor and gearing from 1932 still operating today.

                              

Unfortunately the sun was on the wrong side of the building for this photo of the machinery at the top of Petrin Hill. Not part of the museum this is the equipment running the cable cars still today.

Prague is an excellent city for Vagabonds. Transit passes are cheap, food is affordable, the main train station is convenient to the main tourist destinations. The tram and metro networks are extensive and pretty much negate the need for taxis or buses. One drawback for rail fans is there is no rail connection from the airport to any rail stations. A bus runs every 30 minutes and only cost a few dollars.  It's efficient, cheap and takes you where you need to go, but it's no train. Coming soon; thoughts on the Dubai and Amsterdam transit systems and an extra long article on my experience on the City Night Line.

Buying train tickets for travel in Europe

First forget everything you know about shopping for airline tickets. There are no “digital travel agencies” that find you the cheapest tickets possible on each route. The sites that purport to do that actually charge quite a bit more than buying direct from the railway. For my upcoming trips from Prague to Amsterdam and then onto Paris I purchased three tickets from two different railway websites in two different countries and will be riding on trains operated by German, Belgian and French railway companies. Confusing? At first, but read along as I explain the methods to the madness.

                I purchased tickets in order of the journeys I’m taking. So Prague to Amsterdam was first. I’ll be taking the City Night Line train operated by Deutsche Bahn, the German railways. My options for purchasing a ticket for the City Night line were the DB website, Czech Railways and Nederlandse Spoorwegen, the Dutch rail system’s website. Both the Czech and Dutch websites were cheaper. But the Czech railways do not offer an e-ticket option that I can print out myself. I could have my ticket mailed to me or I can pay a surcharge to pick it up from a ticket counter. The NS website not only has an English language mirror, accepts US credit cards but also has the option of allowing me to print out my ticket myself. Here is what the ticket looks like:

                Next were the Thalys and TGV trains to get from Amsterdam to Charles De Gaulle airport. The Thalys is a jointly operated by Belgium and The Netherlands so I was able to purchase my ticket from Amsterdam to Brussels on the NS site, though I could have booked directly with Thalys for the same price. I’ll change trains in Brussels for the French operated TGV. The option to buy a ticket on the TGV for that route via the NS website did not exist so I booked directly with SNCF Voyages, operator of the TGV. That website had an e-ticket option but would not take my credit card for some reason. Luckily they do accept Paypal. By booking directly with SNCF I was able to score a discounted "Prems" ticket, special internet only offers available on SNCF's website. The ticket landed me a first class ticket from Brussels to Roissy for LESS than a 2nd class! A plush solo window seat, not your usual Vagabond accommodations, but at a Vagabond price.

                Booking rail travel across Europe can seem daunting at first and you may be tempted to take the easy, but expensive way out.  But  I suggest you visit the website The Man in Seat 61, read it thoroughly and take the time to explore the various rail agency websites to find what works for you. A few points to keep in mind when shopping; make sure the railway has a print at home ticket option, make sure the website accepts your payment type, and it’s easiest to book with the state railway company of your country of origin or destination, i.e. Prague to Amsterdam—Czech Republic or The Netherlands.

                Our next few posts will be about my experiences on the City Night Line and the Thalys/TGV hi-speed rail lines.

Carny

Ever dream of running away and joining the circus carnival? 

Ringling Brothers, Barnum & Bailey is well known for it's circus trains. But did you know that Strates Shows is America's only railroad carnival? With 50 flat cars, 10 sleeping cars and a generator car the Strates train is not as diverse as Ringling Brothers but isn't any smaller. In their heyday dozens of circuses and carnivals traveled by rail, most based out of Florida for a winter quarters. In 1911 there were 32 different circus trains. The Great Depression dealt a near death blow to the circus train with only three remaining by 1939. Post-war prosperity briefly boosted the number to six but advances in trucks and the development of the Interstate Highway System quickly dwindled the shows to two and then only the Ringling Brothers, Barnum & Bailey show.* Numbers separating Carnival from Circus trains have been difficult to ascertain. But another carnival is worth mentioning here. The Royal America Shows which at it's pinnacle in the late 60's was moved on nearly 100 cars. Now only two remain. Ringling Brothers, Barnum & Bailey (with two consists) and Strates Shows.

Co-founder David Bonetti recently filmed the Strates Carnival train in Pennsylvania;





For an in depth documentary done about thirteen years ago follow watch Folkstreams.net "Carnival Train" a nearly two hour long video on the Strates Show. About twenty minutes is exclusively rail related. The rest goes into the history, the culture and the lifestyle of the carnival and the people who make it happen. The carny's.

*Figures and dates from http://www.trainweb.org/circus/golden_years.htm

Train Spotting (Rail Fanning) Amsterdam Centraal 24 Oct 12

In Europe it's called "Train Spotting" in the US it's "Rail Fanning" When searching YouTube for videos of trains before traveling abroad it's helpful to know the right terms.Co-creator David Bonetti brings you today's helpful hint. Co-creator Matthew Picciotto demonstrates his mediocre handheld iPad video skills in this short video shot in The Netherlands last autumn.

Welcome to The Hobo Proletariat

Welcome to The Hobo Proletariat; Not just a blog but a community of Vagabonds with a common interest in honest affordable rail travel experiences. The owners of The Hobo Proletariat aren't looking for followers we are looking to create a community.

Fellow Vagabonds are you looking for stories, videos and insights into rail travel for the masses? Do you dream of crossing Russia on the Trans-Siberian and wonder whether to travel by 3^rd or 2^nd class? Then you’ve come to the right place. We don’t have anything to offer the bourgeois with their first class lounges and private sleeping compartments. But we can tell you which waffles out of the vending machines in a Netherlands train station taste the best. Come aboard as we discover and then share with you tips for negotiating the Moscow subway, a translation guide for the Washington DC Metro conductors and many other adventures.

The videos and photographs we share are all taken with “semi-pro”, “Prosumer” or lesser equipment. After all we aren’t National Geographic or PBS. We don’t have a film crew to follow us around. But we are serious about photography. Some people like golf, some like to collect stamps, we like taking pictures. But as Vagabonds ourselves we don’t have $10,000 to spend on recording equipment.

Our goal when you view our work is to not think “I could never do that”. Our goal is for you to think “I could do that if I only (took a photography class at the community college, cleaned the lens on my phone, took my camera instead of my iPad with me the next time I rode the metro…)" So follow along and when you feel ready to join email us with guest posts or videos.